I had this cake at a small bakery in Brittany on a rainy Tuesday in 2019 and have been chasing the same magic ever since. French butter cake — known in France as gâteau breton — is the legendary salted-butter dessert from Brittany made with only five ingredients: butter, sugar, flour, egg yolks, and salt. Dense and shortbread-like, with a deep amber crackled crosshatched top. Pure butter heaven in 75 minutes, served in small slices with strong coffee.
Fun fact: this cake comes from a region famous for its salted butter — Brittany’s beurre demi-sel has its own AOC protected designation, similar to Champagne or Parmigiano-Reggiano. The salt content (about 1.5%) is the entire flavor profile of the cake. Use cheap butter and it’s a mediocre cake; use real French or European-style butter and it’s a religious experience.
Why this recipe works
- The butter is everything. Use real European or French butter (Plugrá, Kerrygold, Président) — the higher fat content (82%+ vs 80% for American) is the entire flavor of the cake.
- Egg yolks only. No whites — that’s why the texture is shortbread-dense, not cake-airy. Save the whites for meringues.
- Chill before baking. 30 minutes in the fridge firms the dough so the crosshatched top holds its pattern through the bake. Skip this and the top disappears.
Ingredients
Makes one 8-inch cake, 10-12 small slices (rich — small slices are the move).
For the cake
- 1 cup (227 g) unsalted European-style butter, softened to room temperature
- 1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar
- 6 large egg yolks (save whites for another use)
- 1 tsp pure vanilla extract
- 1 tsp almond extract (optional but traditional)
- 2 cups (250 g) all-purpose flour
- 1.5 tsp baking powder
- 1 tsp fine sea salt (or 3/4 tsp table salt — non-negotiable for the signature flavor)
For the egg wash
- 1 large egg yolk + 1 tsp water
To finish
- Powdered sugar for dusting
- Fresh berries on the side (optional — traditional French versions are served plain)
Smart substitutions
- Salted butter: If you can find French salted butter (beurre demi-sel), use it and reduce added salt to 1/2 tsp
- Different flavors: Replace almond extract with 1 tsp orange zest, 1 tsp lemon zest, or 1 tbsp dark rum
- Gluten-free: Substitute 1:1 GF flour blend with 1/2 tsp xanthan gum
Instructions
Step 1: Cream the butter and sugar
Heat oven to 350°F. Grease an 8-inch round cake pan and line the bottom with parchment. In a large bowl, beat the softened butter and granulated sugar with an electric mixer for 3 full minutes until pale yellow and very fluffy. Don’t rush this — air incorporated here is what makes the texture work.
Step 2: Add yolks and flavorings
Add the egg yolks one at a time, beating fully after each addition. Add vanilla and almond extract. The mixture will look pale yellow, silky, and almost custardy.
Step 3: Fold in dry ingredients
Whisk the flour, baking powder, and salt in a separate bowl. Add to the butter mixture and mix on low speed just until combined. The dough will be very thick — like sugar cookie dough or shortbread dough.
Step 4: Chill the dough
Press the dough evenly into the prepared cake pan, smoothing the top. Chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. This is critical — chilled dough holds the crosshatched pattern through baking. Skip this and the lines disappear.
Step 5: Egg wash and crosshatch
Whisk the egg yolk and water for the wash. Brush over the surface of the chilled dough. Using a fork, lightly score a diagonal crosshatch pattern in the wash — go one direction first, then perpendicular. This is the iconic gâteau breton signature.
Step 6: Bake to deep golden
Bake for 45-50 minutes until the top is deep amber golden brown — this cake bakes darker than American cakes because of the high butter content. That’s correct. A toothpick in the center should come out clean. Cool in the pan for 15 minutes, then unmold onto a wire rack to cool completely. Dust with powdered sugar before serving.
Nutrition information
Per slice (1/12 of cake):
- Calories: 360 kcal
- Protein: 4 g
- Carbohydrates: 36 g
- Fat: 22 g (with 13 g saturated — this is a buttery cake, no apologies)
- Sodium: 220 mg (from the salt — feature, not bug)
Pro tips for the real-deal version
- Better on day two. The flavors deepen overnight. Make it the day before serving.
- Serve at room temperature. Cold-from-the-fridge dulls the butter flavor — let it warm for 30 minutes before eating.
- Pair with coffee or dessert wine. Strong espresso, Sauternes, or French ice cider all work beautifully. Not milk — too creamy with the butter.
- Add rum-soaked raisins. Soak 1/2 cup golden raisins in 2 tbsp dark rum for 30 min, drain, fold into the dough. Traditional in some Breton bakeries.
Frequently asked questions
What’s the best butter for this cake?
European-style butter with at least 82% butterfat: Plugrá, Kerrygold, Président, Échiré (if you can find it), or Vermont Creamery. American butter (usually 80%) works but lacks the depth. This is one recipe where buying the better butter genuinely transforms the result.
Why are there so many egg yolks?
Egg yolks (no whites) give the cake its dense, shortbread-like texture and rich golden color. Whites would make it too cakey and airy. Save the leftover whites for meringues, friands, or angel food cake.
How do I store this?
Room temperature, tightly wrapped, for up to 5 days — it actually gets better. Refrigerator for 2 weeks. Freezer for 3 months, wrapped well; thaw at room temperature.
Can I make it in a different size pan?
9-inch round bakes 5 minutes less. 7-inch round bakes 5-10 minutes more. A 9×9 square works too. Avoid loaf pans — the dough is too dense and won’t bake evenly.
Is this cake very sweet?
Less sweet than most American cakes — sugar to flour ratio is 1:2, vs typical American 1:1 cakes. The flavor is buttery and slightly salty rather than super sweet. Perfect with coffee, less so as a standalone snack.
How do I know when it’s done?
Top should be very dark amber golden brown — much darker than American cakes you may be used to. A toothpick inserted in the center should come out clean. If it’s still gooey but the top is browning fast, tent with foil and continue baking.