I had this cake at a small bakery in Brittany on a rainy Tuesday in 2019 and have been chasing the same magic ever since. French butter cake — known in France as gâteau breton — is the legendary salted-butter dessert from Brittany made with only five ingredients: butter, sugar, flour, egg yolks, and salt. Dense and shortbread-like, with a deep amber crackled crosshatched top. Pure butter heaven in 75 minutes, served in small slices with strong coffee.
Fun fact: this cake comes from a region famous for its salted butter — Brittany’s beurre demi-sel has its own AOC protected designation, similar to Champagne or Parmigiano-Reggiano. The salt content (about 1.5%) is the entire flavor profile of the cake. Use cheap butter and it’s a mediocre cake; use real French or European-style butter and it’s a religious experience.
Why this recipe works
- The butter is everything. Use real European or French butter (Plugrá, Kerrygold, Président) — the higher fat content (82%+ vs 80% for American) is the entire flavor of the cake.
- Egg yolks only. No whites — that’s why the texture is shortbread-dense, not cake-airy. Save the whites for meringues.
- Chill before baking. 30 minutes in the fridge firms the dough so the crosshatched top holds its pattern through the bake. Skip this and the top disappears.
Nutrition information
Per slice (1/12 of cake):
- Calories: 360 kcal
- Protein: 4 g
- Carbohydrates: 36 g
- Fat: 22 g (with 13 g saturated — this is a buttery cake, no apologies)
- Sodium: 220 mg (from the salt — feature, not bug)
Pro tips for the real-deal version
- Better on day two. The flavors deepen overnight. Make it the day before serving.
- Serve at room temperature. Cold-from-the-fridge dulls the butter flavor — let it warm for 30 minutes before eating.
- Pair with coffee or dessert wine. Strong espresso, Sauternes, or French ice cider all work beautifully. Not milk — too creamy with the butter.
- Add rum-soaked raisins. Soak 1/2 cup golden raisins in 2 tbsp dark rum for 30 min, drain, fold into the dough. Traditional in some Breton bakeries.
Frequently asked questions
What’s the best butter for this cake?
European-style butter with at least 82% butterfat: Plugrá, Kerrygold, Président, Échiré (if you can find it), or Vermont Creamery. American butter (usually 80%) works but lacks the depth. This is one recipe where buying the better butter genuinely transforms the result.
Why are there so many egg yolks?
Egg yolks (no whites) give the cake its dense, shortbread-like texture and rich golden color. Whites would make it too cakey and airy. Save the leftover whites for meringues, friands, or angel food cake.
How do I store this?
Room temperature, tightly wrapped, for up to 5 days — it actually gets better. Refrigerator for 2 weeks. Freezer for 3 months, wrapped well; thaw at room temperature.
Can I make it in a different size pan?
9-inch round bakes 5 minutes less. 7-inch round bakes 5-10 minutes more. A 9×9 square works too. Avoid loaf pans — the dough is too dense and won’t bake evenly.
Is this cake very sweet?
Less sweet than most American cakes — sugar to flour ratio is 1:2, vs typical American 1:1 cakes. The flavor is buttery and slightly salty rather than super sweet. Perfect with coffee, less so as a standalone snack.
How do I know when it’s done?
Top should be very dark amber golden brown — much darker than American cakes you may be used to. A toothpick inserted in the center should come out clean. If it’s still gooey but the top is browning fast, tent with foil and continue baking.
